Perfecting your glam can sometimes be tricky and that's why we bring you renowned make-up artist Lori Taylor Davis's glam tips that she uses on Hollywood A-listers.
With many of us buying our make-up online how would you advise our readers to best match their foundation to their skin tone?
I like to share that when choosing your foundation you can’t just look at your face, you must consider your neck and chest, as well as arms. Many of my clients are very good with applying some type of product that contains sun protection, which tends to make the face a lighter shade than the skin on the arms and body. With that said, the biggest steps are to know your intensity, undertone, and depth.
· Your intensity is how light or dark your skin is. Are you fair? Medium?
· Your undertone is always true, no matter how fair or dark you are or if you tan or not.
· Depth is simply going slightly lighter or deeper within an intensity. For instance, “light” might encompass varying degrees of light from extremely light (almost fair-light) to a deeper light (almost medium). Many make-up wearers can play with the depth depending on whether or not the colour looks natural once applied to the skin.
Once you have considered all the above, the next steps are to choose 3 shades you think fit your intensity, undertone and depth. If possible, swipe a small amount at the centre of the face, blending it completely, the shade that disappears is your match. In the past the general rule was to apply to the jawline to test shades, but for a truer match, testing in the centre of the face is best, because this is where most discolouration tends to start.
There are also options like virtual try-on that can help when shopping online. The shades in Smashbox's new Always On Skin Balancing Foundation are so easy to find because they are all coded by intensity, depth and undertone. So if you know your intensity and undertone it will be easy to find a shade.
Tips to determine your undertone
Cool= Pink Undertone. Usually has more blue/purple veins
Warm= Golden Underdone. Generally, tans easily. Usually has more green veins
Neutral= A mix of cool and warm. Usually has a mix of blue and green veins.
Olive= If none of the above sounds like a match, try olive. Mostly golden with a hint of cool neutral, some might say greenish. This can also be used as a corrective shade in some cases.
What are your tips on achieving the perfect no make-up look?
After applying serums and moisturisers, applying a skincare-focused primer (like Silk Screen Complex Primers) as the first layer of make-up helps to get skin prepped to receive the next application of products. Apply products that correct flaws without adding obvious layers, like colour correctors, something like Smashbox x Becca Undereye Brightening Corrector for the under-eye area. For a non-make-up flush choosing a cream cheek that’s matte can subtly enhance features, this can also be used as a subtle flush on the lips, try Halo Sheer to Stay Color Tints to achieve this. Using eyeliner in soft grey or metallic brown can enhance eyes without looking overly make-up-y, or harsh. Apply to the upper-inner lash line, curl lashes but skip mascara, or apply a very light coat.
How do you feel about hybrid skincare/beauty products?
I love that the complexion is getting an added boost by having even more benefits of skin-loving ingredients. I’m skin-obsessed! Skin at its best is always the first step to any great make-up application. Hybrids are taking out the guess work and reducing application steps. Smashbox has a whole collection of primers that are customised for different skin types, and they create a breathable barrier while strengthening skin from environmental aggressors like pollution and blue light. In fact, we even put skin-loving ingredients in lipstick, and our new foundation (Always On Skin Balancing Foundation) contains adaptogens that help skin work like an automatic thermostat to balance levels of oil and hydration. In all, hybrids give your skin added benefits so you can feel good about what you’re putting on your skin.
How can our readers achieve the perfect glazed look?
It is the most skin-centric of looks, think no-make-up make-up that has the bonus of high shine. It’s perfect for every skin type and beckons to the idea of youthful skin. Skin prep and skin set are the very important steps for not only the overall look, but also for longevity.
1. After applying moisturiser or oil control lotion (for oily skin) apply a customised primer cocktail, ideally Smashbox Primerizer+, followed by Illuminate Primer, the “glow two” to achieve this look. These two products work to create a super glowy, glazed complexion that lasts.
2. For added “Glazed Glow” apply a small amount of concealer, correctors and/or foundation, and tap a little more Illuminate Primer on the high points of the face.
3. Apply a powder or a mattifier like Smashbox Control Primer around the nose, between brows and at the temples to avoid looking sweaty.
4. Apply Smashbox Endurance setting spray to maximise staying power.
When it comes to perfect glam, what are the products we all need?
1. A Primer. Using a primer truly makes application look better, wear better, and helps you customise the finish of your overall makeup.
2. Smashbox x Becca Under Eye Brightening Corrector
3. Always On Skin Balancing Foundation
4. Cali Contour - Sculpting, bronzing and flush in one palette
5. Mascara and brows (Don’t make me pick!)
6. A pop of colour for the lips
What are the absolute make-up faux pas that you have seen?
Swatching foundation to the back of your hand to find the perfect match to your face and using way too much product to find the perfect match. Swatch foundation to the centre of the face (usually discolouration is most prominent in the centre of the face) not at the jawline. The back of the hands is usually not the same colour as your face and when trying to find the perfect match for you face you should take into consideration the colour/tone of the neck, chest and shoulder to achieve a synergistic match.
It’s a crime not to prime! Some feel like priming is an extra step or unnecessary addition to their skincare/make-up routine, but it’s truly make-up/skin insurance. Primer provides a smooth base for your foundation and helps your make-up stay put. With newer formulas they also contain skin loving ingredients so it’s an added boost your skin and make-up needs.
Applying unnecessary amounts of under eye concealer. The delicate under eye needs you to take it easy on how much concealer you use, and the placement is key. A small dab on the inner and outer corner is usually enough. If a second application is needed, then build lightly. A concealer's main job is to conceal flaws for the under eye and camouflage imperfections on the face. Yes, you can use it to sculpt, brighten and highlight, but the less is more approach is best as these products are designed to layer and build naturally.
What is the one beauty product you cannot live without?
Wow only 1?! that’s hard! For my pro kit it’s got to be OG Primer (The Original Smooth & Blur Primer) it really changes how make-up performs during application and throughout the day. It’s a workhorse. In my personal life, it’s brows because that’s my biggest challenge, and I never want to go out without great brows.
What are your best tips for creating thicker and fuller brows especially for anyone who has suffered from overplucking?
Brows are my thing! I find myself checking out brows that I see on the streets daily. In just a few easy steps it’s easy to plump up your brows naturally. Create shape by brushing brows upward using your natural brow pattern as a guide to fill. Choose a matte brow pencil, apply colour in small brush-like strokes that mimic hair, build colour gradually by layering and brushing in between applications. To fill spots or areas where brows are extremely sparse apply colour in a “back stroke” or strokes that go against the natural grain of how the brow hair grows. This application helps colour adhere to the skin and base of brow area.
How do you stop mascara and eyeliner from melting into the corner of the eyes?
The best methods to prevent this are simpler than you’d think. Start with waterproof eyeliner and always pair mascara with a lash primer on both upper and lower lashes. Lash primer acts as a lock-on base and helps mascara stay put. Again, go light on concealer so it brightens the under eye but doesn’t disrupt make-up.
Matte or gloss for lips?
I’m a gloss girl all the way. You can never be glow-y enough. Glossy lips are the easiest to apply without a mirror and always appear fuller in photos. I also love lipsticks with a shiny finish.